Chinatown Express Restaurant

Chinatown Express
Restaurant

The Washington Post
Nov. 30, 2016

Lin Han, noodle master
It's a simple window that looks out onto Sixth Street NW, but in a way, it's also a stage. Chinatown Express is the theater. "Fresh Noodle Made on the Spot," the lettering on the window, is the name of the show. For 15 years now, Lin Han has been its star. "He's the best one to do the noodles, the dumplings the steam buns," says the restaurant's owner, Lui Shing. But really, "He's a noodle guy."

The noodles are what stops people in their tracks on the sidewalk and draws them to his window to watch. Lin makes them every weekday from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., and then again from 5 p.m. until about 8. The lai mein are hand-stretched in a series of balletic motions — the production that Lin has been repeating all these years. He takes a lump of dough made from water, oil and Korean flour, which he and Lui say is the best for lai mein. He pulls it into a rope, and twists that rope around itself...Enough for about two bowls of the restaurant's signature dish.
—Maura Judkis

746 Sixth St. NW. chinatownexpressdc.com. 202-638-0424

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