Established 1877
CuisineGood Food, Great TraditionGood food and small cafes have long been a tradition in Nicodemus, although most businesses are now gone.
Ernestine's Bar-B-Q is the last restaurant in town. The legendary Ernestine VanDuvall's establishment is now operated by her niece and her revered recipe for barbeque sauce is sold through several outlets. During the annual Homecoming Celebration at the end of July, vendors from the community serve a variety of foods, including fried chicken, fish, and lots of barbeque for festival attendees.
CommerceLocally-Owned Businesses Continue to FlourishIn years past Nicodemus had a vital business district centered along Washington Avenue, touting several general stores, livery companies, a real estate office, doctor's offices, druggists, hotels, a millinery shop, implement company, two newspapers, and a bank. The business district declined after 1888 when the Union Pacific Railroad was routed several miles south of Nicodemus. Today, few commercial ventures operate in Nicodemus. Horse-drawn tours of the town and township are provided by the Nicodemus Livery Company. The Nicodemus Flour Co-op, established by five descendants, sells flour in town and via the Internet, providing an alternative market for their crop.
GeographyAn
Oasis in the South Solomon River ValleyNicodemus Township lies in the eastern edge of Graham County along its boundary with Rooks County. Lying on an upland table north of the South Fork Solomon River, Nicodemus has always been an oasis in the surrounding open countryside typical of the High Plains region of Western Kansas.
ArtOrnate Signs and PlaquesThe community's beautifully carved limestone welcome sign stands at the west end of town. It replaced a wooden sign that stood for years as a landmark along the highway. The native limestone sign was made and installed by a local artisan in 2001. The Masonic plaque at the intersection of Washington and Third Streets was installed at the location of the former Masonic Hall. Dedicated by the Kansas Prince Hall Masons, it commemorates the first Prince Hall Masonic organization to be established in the state.
CustomsCome Discover the Emancipation CelebrationThe Emancipation Celebration, or "Homecoming" as it is now called by the descendants, was first celebrated August 1, 1878. This traditional festival is held every year on the last weekend in July. It commemorates the freedom acquired through emancipation and the new lives and homes the original settlers made in the "Promised Land" in Kansas. The festival was first
held at Scrugg's Grove down near the South Fork Solomon River on R. B. Scrugg's homestead, but was moved into town after the Township Hall was built in the 1930s. The public is welcome to attend the Celebration.
HistoryNicodemus National Historic SiteNicodemus was founded in 1877 by African American settlers from Kentucky, Mississippi, and other eastern or northern states. It was named after the first African to purchase his freedom in the United States. Nicodemus is the only surviving all-black town located west of the Mississippi River that was established at the end of Reconstruction. Its significance in American history has been recognized by designation as a National Historic Landmark in 1976 and as a National Historic Site in 1996. Nicodemus National Historic Site is now administered and interpreted by the National Park Service.
PeopleEarly Settlers, Buffalo Soldiers, & Sports HeroesEdward P. McCabe was secretary for the Nicodemus Town Company in 1878 and went on to become the first Graham County Clerk. He was the first African American to hold an elected state office in Kansas, serving two terms as State Auditor in Kansas. The Reverend Hickman and his wife Williana arrived with the first group of settlers in 1877 from Georgetown, Kentucky. Reverend Hickman started the Mt. Olive Baptist
Church northwest of town. Zachary and Jennie Fletcher also came to Nicodemus in 1877 and opened the first business in town — the St. Francis Hotel (still standing). Fletcher was the postmaster; Nicodemus was the second oldest post office in the United States to be operated by an African American. His wife was the first schoolteacher in town.
The Nicodemus Buffalo Soldier Association was established to commemorate the contributions of African Americans in service to the military. Some descendants did serve as Buffalo Soldiers, including Nathaniel Moore who was a member of the 9th U.S. Cavalry. Mr. Moore died in 2002 and was buried with military honors in the Mt. Olive Cemetery west of town.
Several professional athletes grew up in Nicodemus: Veryl Switzer of the Green Bay Packers, Marvin Switzer of the Buffalo Bills, Gayle Sayers of the Chicago Bears, and Gerald Wilhite of the Denver Broncos.
ArchitectureA Wealth of Historic BuildingsWhen Nicodemus was first established, many settlers lived in dugouts. These were gradually replaced by simple stone and wood structures. Today, five of the properties in town comprise the Nicodemus National Historic Site. The oldest building, the 1881 St. Francis Hotel, is privately owned. The first school in Graham County was established in 1879 at Nicodemus. The present District No.
1 School building (built in 1918) is at the corner of Fourth and Madison - classes were held until consolidation in 1955, when students transferred to the nearby town of Bogue. The African Methodist Episcopal Church (1885) at the corner of Third and Adams Streets is now owned by the National Park Service. The First Baptist Church at the corner of Fourth and Washington was completed in 1907 on the site of two earlier structures. The congregation now uses the newer sanctuary to the north of the old church. The Township Hall, built during the Great Depression by local men, still serves as a community center.
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