“verry bad passing...”
West bound, the trip up Lolo Creek was the start of a remarkably arduous and life-threatening part of the expedition's journey. Eastbound, the passage down Lolo Creek represented victory over one of the most formidable barriers to cross-country travel they had encountered.
Heading West: September 11-22, 1805
When Meriwether Lewis reached the Continental Divide south of the Bitterroot Valley on August 12, 1805, he expected to see a plain descending toward the Pacific Ocean; instead, the dream of a Northwest Passage was shattered when he saw
"immence ranges of high mountains still to the West of us."
The captains enlisted the services of a Shoshone guide they called Old Toby, who told them of a rugged Indian road through the mountains leading to the west. They decided to give it a try.
Lewis and Clark had planned to be at the Pacific by this time, so they must have felt a growing sense of urgency when they saw the snow-covered mountains. The Corps of Discovery stopped for a few days just east of here at a place Lewis named Traveler's Rest, where they prepared for the difficult journey ahead. The expedition was about to face the last and most intense test of their abilities before reaching the Pacific.
The expedition left Traveler's Rest on September 11,
1805, following a trail along the ridges above the brush-choked creek bottom. Clark's journal entry on September 22, 1805, described the road as
"verry bad passing over hills & thro' Steep hollows."
Several of the expedition's horses were injured when they rolled down steep hillsides. Snow fell, almost obliterating the trail and turning what had been a difficult journey into a nightmare. By the time they emerged from the mountains on September, 22, 1805, members of the expedition were plagued by diarrhea, skin rashes, lethargy, and other symptoms of malnutrition. They found themselves in the home of the Nez Perce, who generously assisted the expedition with their journey west.
Returning East: June 24-30, 1806
After wintering at Fort Clatsop near the Oregon Coast, the expedition came back across the Bitterroots, arriving at Traveler's Rest on June 30, 1806. The captains had decided earlier to split the group into two parties to explore more of the Louisiana Territory on their way home. Leaving Traveler's Rest on July 3, 1806, Captain Lewis lead nine mounted soldiers, seventeen horses, and his Newfoundland dog, Seaman north to the Clark Fork and up the Bitterroot River. Clark led the rest of the party south down the Bitterroot Valley. They promised to meet in a month at the confluence of the Yellowstone and Missouri rivers.
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